what is the best rouge to use to polish copper youtube

Nancy LT Hamilton

Last updated:  10/12/21, 7/31/20, 7/28/20, 7/5/xix/20, 5/13/20, eleven/17/18

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Contents

• 1 Finishing 925 silver (sterling argent), tarnish, polishing
• 2 Studio Cleanup – How to vacuum and clean up the dust created while finishing jewelry
• 3 Removing Firescale and Oxidation
• 4 Protecting Sterling Silver from Oxidation
• five How to Finish and shine bronze
• half-dozen How to finish copper, likewise as contumely jewelry
• seven How Exercise I Take Off Scratches From Copper Earrings Using Different Sanding Grits?
• eight How do you terminate gold?
• 9 Protecting the finish on metals
• 10 Can the rouge I use for buffing gilt be bad?
• xi What compound should I purchase for 22k gold polishing
• 12 How To Clean And Shine In Tight Spots
• 13 How To Protect A Cease And Keep The Coating From Bottleneck Holes
• 14 What compounds should I utilize?
• 15 How to finish edges and interior pierced areas.
  • fifteen.1 Making a Sanding Stick
    • 15.1.i Sanding stick with foam
    • xv.i.2 Sanding stick without foam
• 16 Is It Ok To Rub A Green-Scrungy-Thingy On 14k Gold-Filled Sheet Metal To Go A Brushed Finish Or To Fine Steel Wool Information technology?
• 17 How do you put a scratched ("ice") end on metallic jewelry?
• 18 Tin I Silver Plate Nickel?
  • 18.i How Practise I Texture My Metallic To Match This Blueprint (Looks Like Reticulation or A Sandpaper End)
• 19 How to Create a White, Matte, or Satin ("Ice") Finish on Silver
• twenty More Information
  • 20.ane Related Videos
  • 20.two Related Web Pages

Finishing 925 silver (sterling silver), tarnish, polishing

Question

"I'1000 glad that I found your video clip on youtube and so your blog and terminal your Facebook then I can have a conversation with you lot.

I am new to making jewelry, and I currently piece of work on oxidized silver. Even so, I don't know the process for 925 argent products to finish polishing. Do u think I demand to do some coating/plating before oxidized?

And more important is which castor is ok for cleaning the night out on some surfaces and even so keep some areas night.

1 time I tried but, it turned out that I over-polished information technology.  It turned to the color of 925 silver, and so iii-five days later the silver turned yellow.  I was really sad near that.

Wonder how some brands like Trollbeads tin can change the chaplet to Non 925 original silver color.

Please help, I stuck stuck stuck here"

Answer

 Lots of questions. Big questions. On finishing your silver, information technology all depends on the blazon of stop y'all desire and how much finishing your metal needs. I have a few videos on finishing, sanding, etc. on my finishing playlist on YouTube. Please come across this link to More than Information, on this page.

Stainless Steel Polishing Medium

   If there are no scratches on the metal and nothing to clean upwards, like solder blobs, and y'all want a shiny finish, tumbling with stainless steel shot is the easy way to go. Other methods for achieving a mirror stop involve sanding and then polishing. It's a huge subject with tons of techniques and a myriad of tools involved. Not answerable here.

Concealment the metal is non normally done until subsequently finishing. Then it needs to accept the highlights added by removing the nighttime color from areas that y'all don't desire it to be. There are products that tin remove tarnish similar pro polish pads, #0000 steel wool, silver polishes, silver cloths, etc.

Anti-Tarnish Tabs

   If you want to keep your argent from darkening over time, use either an anti-tarnish bag, tab , or strip . You tin put the tabs or strips into plastic bags for storage, to continue the tarnish from happening in the first place.

You tin't "over shine" – unless that means you lot polished so much that the silver was worn abroad! Is the metal you are working with silverplate? If you shine that besides much, yous can remove the plating, and if they used brass or bronze, every bit the base metallic, over finishing can remove the silver coating – exposing the xanthous beneath. I have never polished something and had information technology turn yellow.

Sometimes, silver volition commencement to turn yellow earlier it fully tarnishes.  Mayhap that is what'south happening?

Exercise you lot live in a place where at that place is a lot of pollution? Pollution tin can sometimes crusade more rapid tarnishing.  FYI, 925 silver is also called sterling silver.  Both fine silver and sterling are silver-colored.  Although sterling can be a little grayer than fine silver, most people can't run into the color difference.

Perhaps you didn't rinse the piece well later on applying the patina.  Silver turns yellow if it is placed in the liver of sulfur for only a curt period of fourth dimension or it can yellow if the patina has not been neutralized properly.  This ring of mine was simply in the liver for a few seconds and it looks like gilded, equally a result!  The patina didn't last long as I didn't seal information technology and rings undergo a lot of article of clothing and tear – causing the patina to habiliment off.

Studio Cleanup – How to vacuum and clean upwardly the grit created while finishing jewelry

Question

How do yous clean up your studio afterwards filing or sanding with the Dremel or Flex Shaft?  Do you apply a regular vacuum cleaner?  If and so, can this vacuum be used for the home?  Will the particulates pass through the vacuum'south filters and contaminate our air?

Answer

My first step is to employ a whisk broom to make clean upwardly surface messes – wearing an N95 particulate mask!

You might also call back about getting a small-scale shop vac for when yous are sanding or finishing.  Set upwardly some kind of collection hood.  That fashion you don't have a big cleanup. Alarm:  they are loud!

Sometimes, if I've been dropping many things on the floor, I put a nylon stocking, with an elastic band around it, over the end of my hose.  This lets me catch annihilation I may accept "lost" on my flooring.

I assume that you are wearing an N95 particulate mask while sweeping and vacuuming?

I exercise accept a studio-dedicated, small vacuum.  It has a ton of attachments to get into all the nooks and crannies AND (this is a large ane!) information technology's got great suction!  I don't recommend using the aforementioned vacuum in your studio every bit you exercise in your domicile.

At present, I accept an nether-bench vacuum that hooks to the base of my bench pin.  The vacuum collects all the metallic grit and I just transport in the filters for refining, when they are set up for replacement.  Rio Grande, Otto Frei, Stuller, and other companies bear a variety of dust collection systems for a broad variety of prices.

Knew Concepts Face Shield

I besides have a Knew Concepts Face Shield to assist keep the dust out of my face.

Removing Firescale and Oxidation

Question

You state you: get out also many "fire marks" – what do you lot mean by that?  Are y'all using pickle to clean the metal later on soldering?  Or are you seeing that grayness bruising later polishing (firescale)?  If you are seeing firescale, attempt doing something like what is in thisRio Grande article. If you lot take oxidation from soldering, try a nickel pickle:  Here's one commodity fromHoover and Stiff.

Reply

For getting into all the nooks and crannies, effort the3m Radial Bristle Discs.  They piece of work great!  To acquire more about finishing delight view my webpage:Finishing Jewelryand my video:How To End Jewelry.

Protecting Sterling Silver from Oxidation

Question

"Should I be finishing the metal (sterling silver) to prevent further discoloration? What's the all-time way to practise that? Do yous accept whatsoever videos that address that question?"

Answer

The oxidation is not going to stop unless the metal is sealed – which I don't recommend. Although information technology is fine for necklaces and brooches, sealers article of clothing off very apace on bracelets and rings – due to the corporeality of wear and tear.Protectaclear past Everbrite is one that I am familiar with.  (Although, I am checking out pulverization coating as a solution – see the last paragraph.)

The blazon of finishing you do,  prior to adding the patina, doesn't touch on the corporeality of oxidation in the time to come.  Silver just tarnishes – even fine silver and Argentium but, fine and specially, Argentium, tarnish the least.  Y'all might try working with Argentium  – information technology really is a lovely material and tarnishes very slowly.

Some other idea is to store and sell your piece of work with an anti-tarnish bag. They reduce the tarnish  A LOT.  Too, keeping the metallic in an closed bag reduces the amount of exposure that information technology gets from the air.  Air is filled with chemicals that bear on the rate of oxidation.

How to Finish and shine bronze

Question

" I would like to ask how do I finish bronze? To make it shinier? I have recently started with metalwork and I take trouble finishing."

Respond

Have y'all seen my video on finishing?  I also have a webpage on this subject.  Bronze is finished in a similar method to silver. The important work is in the pre-polishing.  The surface needs to be free of scratches, nicks, dings, and any other marks that you don't want.  This is achieved using sandpaper from 320 dust  (depending on how bad the marks are) through 1000 – 3000. Mirror finishes are very time-consuming and involve a lot of elbow grease.

Run into some of the other posts on this page, especially the prior one.

How to finish copper, as well as brass jewelry

Question

"I would love to make some copper as well as brass jewelry, but I don't know what I would use to finish the pieces. Can you recommend whatever type of articulate terminate that I can coat my pieces in that is rubber for the peel? I work out of my apartment, I do not have a studio."

Answer

Below, is some information from my website:nancylthamilton.com. This is from my finishing folio.

I never seal my jewelry but, many practice.  I'm not thrilled with varnishes because, somewhen, they scissure off.  Just, varnish besides keeps fingers and wrists from turning green – it'south a tough call.  In that location are many products out there.  I like ProtectaClear from EverBrite . Rio Grande carries another type chosen Midas Finish Seal Lacquer.  But, I haven't tried this product so, tin't comment on it.

I am going to experiment with powder blanket to seal jewelry.  They (you lot know, "those" people) make a clear – both shiny and matt – pulverisation for pulverization coating.  I'll mail service the results when I try information technology out.

Yous could also try Renaissance Wax Just, it doesn't final long at all – especially with rings and bracelets.  On earrings and necklaces, it will terminal longer because there is less wear and tear with these items of jewelry. Renaissance Wax is all-time used on protected areas – to preserve a patina or inhibit oxidation.  I've also read that hair spray will wearisome down oxidation but, it's not permanent.

Here'southward a link to a discussion board from Finishing.com – which is a groovy resources BTW! – that talks about sealers for metal.

Sealers

• Everbrite'due south ProtectaClear – This is the only lacquer/varnish blazon that I tin can recommend at this fourth dimension every bit it is the but one that I tested and found to piece of work.  I tumbled pieces for hours and scratched them upward with sandpaper.  Although, eventually, the terminate got milky (I'd get milky besides if I had to suffer the same corruption), the stuff stayed on!  The spray-on varnish that I used, peeled up within a half-hr.  I also tested it with Liver of Sulfur colors and they stayed truthful.  Oestrus-treated colors stayed truthful too. Just think that the colors will look different, as they are now shiny. and reflecting light differently.
• Renaissance Wax – Liver of Sulfur colors changed equally did rut coloration.  Leaves a rather matte, not as well shiny finish on the metallic.
• Car Wax – almost the same results every bit with the Renaissance Wax.
• Spray on acrylic sealers tin can work if applied properly.
• Engine enamel coatings work too.  Ditto on the application.

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How Do I Take Off Scratches From Copper Earrings Using Different Sanding Grits?

Question

I am using 18 gauge copper sheet, pierced and sawed in a pair of earrings.   To terminate them I followed the same process I use with silverish:  Sanding with three grades of snap-on sanding discs from Rio, then onto the 3m radial bristle discs in descending gild. But none of the 3m discs will accept off the scratches from the terminal course of sandpaper. Clearly, I am missing one or more abrasives to use betwixt the sanding discs and the polishing discs.  I accept tried all my different grades of wet/dry sandpaper, wire brush, rubber bike, and various Dremel surfaces to no avail.  I presume my usual methods aren't working because copper is softer than silver.   I have refinished the pieces and so many times that my xviii gauge copper is now measuring at 25 guess!  Which is actually kind of cool and fragile, simply I fear it won't accept much more working before information technology falls apart.  Do you have any advice for me?

Reply

Copper will finish similarly to silverish and it shouldn't exist an issue.

It sounds like you are using too aggressive of a sanding disk.

I unremarkably use about 5-6 unlike grits for finishing.  Commonly, I utilise 350, 400, 600, 800, grand, and sometimes 1500.  A lot depends on how badly marred the surface is.  If you've been careful, you should be able to start sanding with 600 grit newspaper.

I brand fine sanding discs with 3m's PSA discs, which you lot tin find at Rio Grande.  They come in grits from 180 – 1200. I have a lot of information on how I practice this on my website .  It takes a while for your eyes/brain to sympathise when you lot take sufficiently sanded over the prior disc's marks.  It can be difficult to tell with the discs.  Sandpaper may work better for you as it is easier to meet and you lot'll reduce the chances that you lot'll over-sand (which it sounds like you are).

My thoughts are that you demand to go through more grits.  Sometimes, I use but regular sandpaper, sanded in one direction to get an idea of whether or non I need to go back a dust or 2.  Run something similar 600 thousand over the metal and see how deep the scratches are – that volition tell you what grit to go back to.

As you lot no doubt know, unless the prior grits marks are removed, all subsequent grits will not remove them.  You have to go back and redo it.  I am really surprised that you didn't have the aforementioned problem with your argent.  Have you ever photographed a piece and zoomed in on it to see how well it is finished?  It'southward frightening – using zoom!  I'll call up I've done a groovy job, zoom in and observe out that I hadn't!  This technique is neat for stone setting too.  But, be careful about getting too crazy about perfection.  There's a signal where it just becomes obsessive.  Scanning your finishing under a scope could brand you crazy and y'all'll never finish anything!  Haha!  Just, it does make one strive for a machine-like perfection.  I take a dearest/hate for magnification.

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How practice yous cease gold?

Question

I have a question: this is the beginning time that I tried to buff my jewelry using a brown and a red rouge, with the flex shaft, using a felt bike. After I buffed it, my jewelry inverse color from deep yellow to light xanthous. Tin can you lot help me with this?

Respond

Y'all didn't mention what type of metal you were using and then, I'll make some guesses.I think that your metal (gold, brass, or bronze) didn't really change colour. I remember what happened was that you took off the patina that formed in that location, over time, and exposed the truthful color of the metal.  Unless, it was plated, like gold plate* (run into below).  That'southward a different story.

You accept a few options if you want that vivid xanthous dorsum – but there are no guarantees that it will look exactly the same – patinas accept a will of their own.  Then, beneath are a few options:

• Expect – time (and the chemicals in the air) will patina information technology again
• Utilise a patinating product like these at Sculpt Nouveau .
• Heat, either from a hot plate or from a gas torch, will also color the metal a bit darker – it tin can also add many other colors. See this folio at Brynmorgen.com for heat patinas.
• See recipe numbers 15 and 16 at The Science Company's website. The recipes are to make straw and xanthous patinas. The Science Company likewise sells chemicals to complement their recipes.

Test all patinas on bit metal outset.  Ready your metal to make it the same colour as your concluding slice.  Be sure to make clean off all grease, oils, and dirt with hot water, degreasing soap (like Dawn Dish Detergent), and a soft OLD toothbrush.  Obviously, you are never using that toothbrush over again for your teeth!  You can too rub the piece with rubbing alcohol too but, it shouldn't be necessary.  H2o should sheet off of the metallic and non brawl up.

*If your metallic was gilded plate, you probably buffed off a layer of gold. By reducing the depth of the gilt, the metal underneath (which is usually silver or gold in colour) dilutes the depth of the original colour making information technology appear "whiter". Please come across my Patinas, Cleaning Metallic, and Sculptnouveau webpages for more data.Back to Table of Contents

Protecting the finish on metals

Question

Hi I have a silver figaro necklace and I have watched your video on youtube (how to end jewelry) and I saw that you lot sanded a silver necklace and buffed it with the rouge compound and then yous suggest finishing information technology with the LUXI Super Fine White Polishing Compound. I was wondering if it volition exist the aforementioned as what you would go from the jewelry shop if not is there a special liquid to give information technology the stunning shine and prevent it from tarnishing as fast? I noticed yous mentioned something about the P rotectaC lear at the end of your video but yous only said copper or brass. Would I use that for sterling argent? Or is there something ameliorate for protecting it and giving information technology the shiny cease? And also what kind of brush would be the least noticeable if it needs to be brushed on?

Answer

The ProtectaClear tin be used on silver too.  Many jewelers utilise a tumbler to smooth upwards their chains.  Personally, I believe the best way to proceed a chain shiny is to wear it or clean it in one case in a while.  There is a new type of silvery out called Argentium (also see my webpage "Wire and Canvas Metal", scroll downwardly to Argentium Silver) which takes years to tarnish.  You can purchase Argentium chains from places like Rio Grande. The end that is done in manufactured jewelry involves large processing plants and vats of stuff which I have no agreement of.  For the small jeweler, you tin use Renaissance wax, a product like ProtectaClear, or even a spray-on varnish.  The problem with the coating is that eventually, that coating will chip off and then you'll take to strip it and recoat it – the main reason that I don't normally apply a protective blanket.  As for brushes, ProtectaClear comes with an applicator that looks similar a powder puff.  I've used sponge brushes too.  Use according to directions.

To clean Argentium silver, if it is tarnished, spray with Windex (or wet a rag with Windex)  and wipe.  Then wash with soap and h2o.

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Can the rouge I use for buffing aureate be bad?

Question

"What I am buffing is 90% gold and I don't call back it has patina in it. Practice y'all have another solution to my trouble? I did some research about the rouge I use and some people said that the rouge I used was bad. Is it possible that rouge tin can do this? I used Silverline rouges. This is the first time my store has used buffing wheels for jewelry making.  My uncle used to polish gold jewelry with a burnisher and soapy water."

Answer

Then, your aureate is 22K.  The rouge shouldn't be a trouble – if it is 22K gold, it should look like shiny 22K gold, afterward polishing – not change color.

At that place is a procedure called depletion gilding where the college karat golden is pulled to the surface by heat or chemicals.  Usually, the layer of college karat golden is very thin. Depletion Gilding would make the aureate announced yellower.  Buffing with rouge would take off that higher karat layer and leave behind, a lower carat metal.

That said, gold under 24 karat tin oxidize – it depends on what is in the air/surround effectually you.

• Here is a quote from Chris Corti at Ganoksin (link is to the whole article): "Blackening of High Carat Gold Jewellery in India and the Middle East".

"Reports of blackening of 21 and 22 karat golds accept been received from customers in countries such every bit Republic of india. This is very unusual in that such blackening is usually found just in low-medium carat golds and is attributable to tarnishing (run into below). It is unremarkably considered that high carat golds (such as 22-karat) exercise non tarnish in the conventional sense. It is a trouble that is peculiar to Republic of india and other countries in the Middle East, apparently.

Recently, the World Aureate Council has had an opportunity to examine examples of blackened 22 karat gold returned to retailers in India. The assay of the blackened layer has shown that it comprises silver (and copper) sulfide. This is a true tarnish layer. That such loftier carat golds should tarnish is unexpected and points to the jewellery being exposed to a particularly 'corrosive' surroundings at some phase. Perhaps, it is due to being worn during food preparation (some foods & spices are very high in sulfur compounds). Possibly, the jewelry is stored in aggressive sulfur-containing environments. Possibly, the jewelry surface is more than susceptible to tarnishing for some reason. At present we cannot be certain as to the cause; we tin can only speculate. Certainly, the testify suggests that lifestyle or the local conditions in countries such as India are different from other parts of the world equally the problem is non reported elsewhere.

We tin can say that the jewelry examined was not under-karated or lacking in whatever significant way. Therefore, the manufacturer does not appear to be responsible for the appearance of this blackening issue (tarnish).

If blackened jewelry is returned to the retailer, he should exist able to make clean off this black layer and re-smooth it. Some advice on minimizing its occurrence is given in a higher place."

This blackening they are talking virtually might start with a general concealment of the metal and your Uncle'southward handling for polishing, would not remove the tarnish simply, work it into the metallic by "burnishing" information technology into the metal.

• Is at that place mercury in the buffing compound or nearby (I hope not, information technology is very dangerous)?  Mercury tin can change yellowish gold and go far look similar silver. The quote beneath is from Finishing.com.  It is an answer to a person whose wedding ring went from gold to silver looking after exposure to mercury:

"A. My suspicion is that mercury is the culprit. Mercury forms a argent-colored amalgam with gold, ruining it. A quiet area in the back of a drawer that once had a bit of mercury in it from a broken thermometer tin accept an accumulation of mercury gas. This would speedily turn the gold silverish, but if there was only a tiny exposure, I think the residue of the gilt can diffuse to restore the gold color."

• Also, see this link to how to gear up the color if it was exposed to mercury.

Then, I would get-go cheque that the gilt is actually what it should exist.  Check with other jewelers to encounter if they take a tarnishing problem. It would be interesting to see if the gold turned yellow again if left to sit.  And then you would know that it is something in the environment that is changing the colour. Perhaps try using the torch to burn off anything that might be on it – like mercury. Please read this article fromSLAC: Mercury and Mercury Compounds Safe Handling Guidelines. Dorsum to Table of Contents

What compound should I purchase for 22k gold polishing

Question

"Exercise have any suggestion for what compound I should purchase for 22k gold polishing? I read about the depletion gilding article, you lot gave me, and I remember my uncle used this method for polishing. He used to "clean" his work by boiling water with some potassium with salt. Next, he used some sort of burnisher to polish information technology, on his work surface, to get a mirror cease. My question is, can I combine his method and the buffing method with rouge? I tried, but I failed because it looks similar the rouge inverse the color again."

Respond

One company suggests white rouge.Hither is their chart. But, others don't mention it for gold.Zam is some other product you lot can try. I accept used it with good results.  There are sooooo many different types and brands.  Thiscommodity might help too.Otto Frei has many compounds.  Otto Frei says that the Blue Rouge is very pop for polishing gold in Europe.  Hither's another page with information.

I employ red rouge for polishing aureate and have never had that big of a colour change.  Mayhap you should discover a unlike rouge supplier or find out what is in information technology.  If in that location is mercury in it, it is very, very unsafe for you lot!  I don't know who the suppliers are in your state so, I can't tell y'all anything nigh your production.  In u.s.a., we have a thing called an MSDS, which lists the chemicals in the product.  Practice yous take something similar?Back to Table of Contents

How To Clean And Polish In Tight Spots

Question

"I'm trying to learn how to make conchos for my horses. Three of them are argent and the other one is Nickle. I'm having trouble finding something to clean and brighten between the stones. I either scratch the stones or can't go it clean and brilliant enough."

Answer

I employ a variety of tools for reaching into small places.  You can utilize abrasive tapes and cords, abrasive pins, annoying discs and points, radial bristle discs, etc.

I would rub a bit of tape over the rock and cutting along the interior bezel wall with a scalpel. This will help to protect the stone while finishing.  You can too put your pollex, from your non-dominant hand, over the stone while finishing.

How To Protect A Cease And Proceed The Blanket From Clogging Holes

Question

"I am wondering, near sprays for jewelry making: sprays that preclude tarnish on Brass and copper.

No matter what I've tried, I seem to become tarnish anyway or/and pebbly finish and the holes of dangles plugged.

How practice yous become about solving this problem?  If I coat things before putting them together, I often have to redress holes."

Respond

Well, I don't usually spray anything.  I feel that the tarnish is what makes the metal beautiful plus, all those coatings wear off over time so the piece needs to have the finish removed and re-practical.  Not so much for earrings and necklaces though but, rings and bracelets take so much abuse that the finish wears fast. I accept applied a protective finish to elements in a bracelet or ring but, I usually set the coated piece in a bezel or another protective mechanism, that keeps it away from wear and tear.

Wait into powder coating with clear – shiny and matte – powders.

 That said, I realize that my opinion is non the only opinion in the world – nor does it matter much to others!   Knowing this fact, I figured out that jewelers needed a solution to their problems.  So, I did some research.  I tested a product past EverBrite:ProtectaClear.  It works, lasts a long while, and is crystal clear.  There are other great products out in that location only, I didn't test them all.  Here's a link to Finishing.Com 's site for other ideas. Even though they are discussing big stuff similar piece of furniture, you might just selection upward a few new ideas! Information technology'southward likewise a great resource to have on mitt.

I achieved a smooth, glass-like stop on my test pieces. You tin can utilize enameling stilts as drying racks.  Coat 1 side allow set, then coat the other side, the next 24-hour interval.  Ensure that the product doesn't drip over to the backside – clean that stuff upward, immediately!

I have two pages that relate to finishing for your betterment:Q&A:  Finishing and my main Finishing folio (links are to problems specific to your questions).  Hopefully, these pages will help.

Equally to your problem with clogged holes, can y'all just drill them out (with a new, precipitous bit) after finishing (and the blanket has setup for at least 24 hours) and then put in the wires?  I don't come across a lot of other choices as the stuff does similar to glaze and cling.  Peradventure you could put wax plugs in the holes, spray or glaze with the sealant, let the cease fix and then identify the pieces on a warm hot plate or in a toaster oven (on tin foil to take hold of the melted wax) to melt the wax?  You lot might even be able to just pop them out with a scribe or other slender object.  I'd check them oft and definitely experiment first!

   Yous tin purchase wax wire in many gauges. Many jewelry suppliers carry wax wire in different gauges. Either purchase a range of gauges, similar in the link to a higher place or purchase a unmarried gauge.  Match the gauge of your drill bit, that made the hole in the first place, with the judge of the wire.  I don't know if this is a stupid idea or not.  I hope you'll let me know!

I am thinking that some type of resist will work.  I would experiment with flake get-go!  Well, that's all I've got.  Deplorable.

The joy and frustration of being a jeweler are encountering insolvable issues and working out solutions.  If a problem bothers united states plenty, we'll figure out a manner around, through or over the issue.

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What compounds should I use?

Question

You said in the video that y'all apply red rouge fifty-fifty though y'all're supposed to use white. I take only dark-green rouge and platinum white. Would they be sufficient for polishing and finishing my gilt jewelry? Also, my rings have scratched that I'chiliad trying to get rid of and so I was wondering which rouge should I employ FIRST to go the scratches out? I'm guessing Brown Tripoli?? (Although I currently don't have it) I'm trying to make my rings wait brand new, scratch-free! 😀
Also, I accept the Foredom flex shaft, the same as yours, and I was also wondering what rotary accessories you would recommend for POLISHING and FINISHING jewelry.

Answer

I only utilise ruby-red rouge.  The pre-finish is, what I experience, is the most of import.  I sand with sandpaper or sanding discs from 320 grit up to at least 1200 grit – often higher –  and and so I apply the rouge.
You lot tin can apply a pre-polishing compound, like brownish tripoli orbobbing chemical compound first then move on to a final finish compound like jeweler'due south rouge.
There are so many types of compounds that practice the same job, to the same metals but, accept different names.  It seems that every company comes up with its own special brand.  I started getting as well confused and decided to merely stick with the rouge.  It does the job for me.

 Every bit to your other polishing compounds, I would check with the manufacturer or read the label every bit to their uses.  Make up one's mind whether your compound is:  ane.  Either an annoying or a polishing compound and ii. whether or not it is suited for the type of metal yous are using.  Test the compounds before using them on a final piece.  Run into the chart in the burring and polishing compounds link below.

Be wary of mixing compounds on the aforementioned wheel or using old buffs and wheels as abrasive compounds could be mixed together with polishing compounds.  That can generate a lot of cleanup work.  I use one wheel with 1 type of metal, with one chemical compound.  I keep the bike and the chemical compound, together, in their own plastic bag.  It makes it easier to call up what is what.

Some other consideration:  If you are pushing out 100 pieces and need a fast terminate – compounds, on a wheel or tumbling are much faster than hand sanding.  So, perhaps, compounds are what you need.  You didn't mention how many pieces you were trying to finish.

 If you are interested, here's an article from Ganoksin on mass finishing. The article mainly deals with tumbling though so, mayhap it's non what you want.

I highly recommend the following commodity, written by John Fisher, chosen:Buffing and Polishing compounds.It is very well done and explains and so much. I institute this article onGanoksin's site also. I think yous volition acquire a lot from this article!

Whatsoever you do, – buy from a trusted supplier –  as quality and dust will vary from type to type.  I pretty much just employ red rouge.

Muslin Buffs

I use muslin and feltbuffs, generally, with my flex shaft. I similar the loose weave of the muslin buffs (they are fluffier) for some jobs – usually, those with texture and a lot of nooks and crannies and I sometimes use a felt cycle for smooth surfaces or for removing scratches from stones (in tandem with diamond lap paste).

I also similarRadial Bristle Discs (for both the flex shaft) for textured and recessed surfaces. They likewise make the bristle discs in larger sizes for the buffing bike. They cost much more though!

Otto Frei Flexacrylic Polishing and Abrasive Wheels Kit

I utilise silicone points, knife-edged wheels, and other shapes for other types of finishing – like getting into tough spots.  Delight see my techniques spider web pages for more links!

Ottotech by EVE Silicone Polishing Kit of 90

 I also have a buffing cycle that I use various wheel types on.  I similar a deburring wheel for general cleanup and pre-polishing.

On cleaning up your scratches:  it all depends on how deep they are.  If they are very deep you might have to use files.  But, I'd start with sandpaper and movement on to points, wheels, and discs. Finish with a vitrify and polishing chemical compound.

I have a friend who only uses abrasive wheels to stop her jewelry, another who only uses the buffing wheel, another swears by tumbling.  Whatever works for you!

I guess my answer is: the job will dictate the tool!

How to finish edges and interior pierced areas.

Question

The edges and interior spaces, on my pierced earrings, look raw.  What do I practise to circular them and make them look sexy like yours…lol?

Reply

You need to apply files and sandpaper!  I love using escapement files for this procedure.  Escapement files are very small files – smaller than needle files.  They fit well into the small-scale recesses created when piercing metal.

Sanding is also of import – when the filing is finished.

One method for sanding in tiny areas is to use Mitchell'southward abrasive cord or tapes. You can thread the tape or string through tiny spots and really polish down the interior surfaces.

Mitchell's Annoying Cord and Tape

Some other option is to make yourself a sanding stick. You can make a larger sanding stick (instructions below) or wrap a toothpick with sandpaper.  Sometimes I roll the sandpaper into a point to reach those elusive areas. Scout my two videos on sanding.

Sandpaper rolled into a fine-pointed cone for reaching small areas.

Making a Sanding Stick

These sanding sticks are made using double stick paper, craft foam sheets,  and craft sticks. You tin can also use paint stirrers.  I cut mine in one-half to get two out of each stick. You tin also make the sticks without the foam.  The cream helps to create rounded edges because the metallic can be encompassed by the sandpaper simply, foam-less sanding sticks piece of work well too.

Sanding stick with foam

• Cut the tip off of the stick
• Mensurate stick width and length.
• Cutting two strips of double-stick tape or double-stick paper that are a bit thinner than the width of the stick.
• Utilise double stick newspaper onto both sides of the sanding stick.
• Cutting foam at double the width of stick plus, add a handful of millimeters actress.  You need to accept into account the depth of the stick and add together a little for the thickness of the foam.
• Wrap foam effectually the stick, having both edges meet in the center of the stick.
• Utilize some other layer of double stick newspaper, only to the back of the foam stick (where the seam is).  Wrap sandpaper around the stick with edges meeting on the behind. Printing down into double stick record.

Sanding stick without cream

• Cutting and shape as in the instructions above.  Utilise double stick to one side of the stick.  Apply the sanding paper and wrap it around the stick.  See images.

    Materials:  Double stick paper, sandpaper, craft stick & craft cream.

   Arts and crafts stick with the cease cut off and double stick applied.  Cream stuck to a craft stick with double-stick applied to the dorsum, on top of the foam, to agree the sandpaper in place.

   Apply sandpaper to the back.

  The finished sanding stick.

• You can also employ rubber cement or other mucilage.
• Stay away from Elmer-blazon mucilage  – too wet and likewise slow!
• Another idea is to use an elastic band on each cease or just apply masking or painter'due south record.
• Y'all can likewise make a sanding block from wood or a foam core.

For interior spaces, you can apply Mitchell'south abrasive cords or tapes. Tiny files, similar micro needle files or escapement files, will also help.

  I oft put these 3m sanding bandsinto my jeweler's saw frame to sand tight areas.  You tin can as well put Mitchell's cords and tape into your saw frame.

Is It Ok To Rub A Green-Scrungy-Thingy On 14k Gilt-Filled Sheet Metal To Become A Brushed Finish Or To Fine Steel Wool It?

Question

"Is it ok to rub a green-scrubby-thingy on 14k gold-filled sheet metal to get a brushed finish? Or to fine steel wool it? I live in the tropics and tarnish is an issue."

Hither's a photo of what I'g trying to achieve: one is brass, the other is the gilded-make full. I don't want to sell anything that volition tarnish easily, and I don't desire to use lacquer. I'm trying to get away from using brass, and this slice is popular, then I'd similar to attempt gilt-filled."

Reply

Yous can use the dark-green scrubby thingy and steel wool (0000) on the metallic – all of information technology.  Don't rub too difficult.  Hopefully, the gilt-filled is of good quality.  There is some crappy stuff out there.  Come across my page on golden-filled for more information. The gilt may tarnish a flake – not too much – not similar silver, brass, bronze, or copper.  Information technology tarnishes because it has copper in information technology.  So, tarnish-free may only be a dream…I don't recommend sealers, like Protecta Articulate – Everbrite, unless it is used on earrings or necklaces.  On other types of jewelry i.e.: rings and bracelets, the wear is too smashing.  Tarnish can be beautiful – learn to capeesh and stand up behind it!

How do you put a scratched ("ice") terminate on metal jewelry?

Question

Answer

There are many unlike types of tools that can give that scratched (or, every bit this company calls it:  Ice) terminate.  Fifty-fifty something as simple as the edge of a square file tin do it. Utilise the file similar you would if you were shading with a pencil.  At that place are checkering filesalso that give a nice texture.

Polishing pads "scrubby wheels"

There are wheel brushes besides similar this cable twist wire wheel – wear gloves!  Non for the flex shaft. Yous could try a actually crude mini-fiber cycle.  Another option is a Mizzi Wheel.  You need a mandrel to mount them merely, you can employ them in the flex shaft.  You could also try really rough sandpaper, similar fourscore or 100 grit.

You could also apply an angle grinder with a rough grit.

Sanding bands, barrels, or drums.

Sanding bands or barrels could be another option. They come in a variety of sizes.

George Goehl has a lot of information on Five imeo about finishing metal.  Y'all might have to rent i for 3.00 but he presents some ideas in the trailer.  I know his youtube video talks about a lot of tools for texturing.  He is a sculptor but, the techniques will work for jewelers too.

The large rule here is to exam on sample metallic offset! Back to Table of Contents

Can I Silver Plate Nickel?

Question

"Is there a way to add together a light glaze of silver on top kind of like a plating?"

Reply

Y'all can take it plated or acquire to practise information technology yourself.  I only use a plating pen and only infrequently.  There are places that you can transport your piece of work out to but, I don't know of any offhand. Nickel can be plated.Back to Table of Contents

How Exercise I Texture My Metal To Match This Blueprint (Looks Similar Reticulation or A Sandpaper Finish)

Question

  "I've looked all over, and have however to find an answer. And this may be out of your expertise just I'chiliad looking to find out how to make the finish seen here, on this band by La Masters of Fine Jewelry.

Some telephone call it a wire-brushed cease not to be dislocated with the common brushed finish.

I'm thinking it may be a specialty rolled impression. Have yous seen it earlier and know how it'southward done?"

Answer

It looks a flake like reticulation.  It could also be an embossed design.  I'd brand a texture hammer, texture your metal and use the back side.  Maybe texture on woods so that the underside keeps its shape.  Yous could also try running a piece of 180 dust sandpaper in a rolling mill with the metal.  Protect your mill by either making a thick newspaper sandwich (like watercolor newspaper) or a contumely sandwich around the metal and the sandpaper.

Chances are,  that it's a machined terminate that is proprietary.  But, you can experiment and detect something close.

The finish is probably brushed – after the texturing is done.  Have you seen my Questions and Answers page: Finishing Questions? I also have another page on Finishing.  Here'southward the link to the specific information that you lot demand:Brushed or Textured Finish.Back to Table of Contents

How to Create a White, Matte, or Satin ("Ice") Finish on Silver

Question

"How practise I create the end below? Is it a chemical thing?"

Reply

Without actually seeing the jewelry – personally – I tin can only guess.  It looks like depletion gilding (some call it "Brilliant Dipping" where the fine silver is brought to the surface of the silver.  The metal is heated, pickled, heated, pickled, etc. up to vii-10 times.  The problem with this technique is that the layer of white, fine argent, is very thin and easily worn or scratched without some sort of protective coating.  It besides could exist a sandblasted terminate and and so depletion gilt. Mayhap information technology is etched then depletion gold. Fine and sterling silvers, PMC, or argent metallic clay, volition all have this white layer later firing or torching and then pickling.

Sandblasting will likewise create this blazon of result. A small, portable organisation may piece of work.  BUT, you need a compressor too.  Match the sandblasting system's needs to make up one's mind the correct compressor to use with it.  Check to see what PSI the blaster requires before purchasing a compressor.

You can too try Mizzy Heatless Wheels , d eburring wheel, or tumbling/polishing media.  Some utilise steel wool or SOS Pads or something similar.  You lot can too use 3M's Scotch-Brite Pads.

3M Scotch Brite Pads

Mizzy Heatless Wheel

Deburring Wheel

Tumbling Media.

More Information

• • Dawn Z ., Hodgepodgerie, What shot can be used to get a matte, tiresome, shine on silver discs? New York. 2010. Spider web.

• How to Finish Jewelry
• How to Sand

• Finishing Jewelry
• Firescale and Oxidation
• Sanding
• Texturing Metals
• Encounter Q & A Tools –What Dremel Attachments Do I Need?
• See Q & A Finishing – How To Remove Dross/Slag From Laser Cut?

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Source: https://nancylthamilton.com/questions-and-answers/finishing-questions/

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